A week in Spain

Toledo at night

It honestly feels like I've been here for a year already. Or, at least a month. I'm a bit homesick today :(. I want my mommy! Just kidding--that's always how traveling is at the beginning. Then it starts flying by.

Biz and I are really tired of forking out money to hostels, so tonight will hopefully be our last night at Residencia La Luna. We're looking at two apartments tonight then making a decision about who will take which one among all the ones we've seen. I'm going to miss Biz--we usually talk for a good while every night, but I'm sure we'll still do slumber parties or something when we're apart. I bought the second season of "The Office" before I left, so we'll definitely have Office marathons, or something fun. And potlucks with the other English teachers--we've already planned on those :).

I'm just growing up right before my very eyes. Moving to Spain and living with Spanish people? This is exciting--but scary, honestly.

Yesterday Biz, this guy Ben and I had our first Spanish class--it was GREAT! All immersion, but slow and understandable! I'm hoping to keep taking Spanish classes after this month. Hopefully by next month we'll know not to order pig brains on the tapas menu... Of all the selections, that's what Biz decided to point to in Toledo over the weekend. I don't recommend them--the texture... is unbearable.

But, Toledo was awesome! It's a really historic town with a diverse background. There's a lot of amazing Muslim architecture, plus gorgeous cathedrals and Jewish mosques. The streets are narrow and labrynth-like. A lot of people say it looks like the Middle East. I loved it. I want to go back for the world's only Visigoth mass in Mozarabic--doesn't that sound intriguing? It used to be the Visigoth capital, then it was the Spanish capital. It's also been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. I'll take you there when you come visit! ;)

I miss you guys! :( I hope to post pictures soon, but I need to invest in a power converter before I can charge my computer, which is a lot of Euros! Also, I'll post my address as soon as I know it so I can start getting REAL MAIL! Yay! hehehe

Twenty-four hours in Madrid

at Jessica's the night before I left

Greetings from Madrid! Biz arrived here yesterday morning and I came later on in the afternoon and met her at our hostel. I came later than her because #1 my flight arrived later than hers and #2 they left one of my bags in London! Fortunately I have backup clothes! It was supposed to arrive last night, then this morning,but... I haven´t seen it yet.

Biz was definitely a sight for sore eyes! The plane ride was long, and "plane sleep" just isn´t the same as sleeping in a real bed. And seeing another American was refreshing--especially my friend ;). I had a long layover in Chicago, which allowed me to call people and say my last goodbyes. That was nice. I looked out of the plane on the flight from Chicago to London a couple times (window seats rock) and saw a beautiful waxing gibbous moon over misty clouds far below. It was enchanting. Flying into Spain was similar--foggy mountains by the beach in the morning, and, closer to Madrid, Olive orchards and houses with tile roofs. Madrid had a dusky pink cloud above it from the plane , which was charming from a distance, not so charming to be in it. It´s so dry here! I took the Metro from the airport to my hostel, because it was $35 cheaper, and had to carry my one sixty-eight-pound bag plus a backpack full of books all the way to my hostel, up stairs and everything. I asked a police if he knew where my hostel street was and he didn´t, so he asked another man who happened to speak great English (which is very rare here, unlike most of Europe), who ended up walking me all the way to the hostel and helping me with my bags! What a great first impression of the city! But, by the time I got there, my throat was just parched--you know the feeling. It´s just so hot and dry here. I´m becoming thankful for my humid roots in the South. ;)

I really think I´m going to love it here. We had orientation today and got to meet some of the other people in the program--a few really cool girls. Biz and I are probably two of the younger people teaching, but they´re all around 22-27, probably. I feel much more comfortable with Canterbury now that I´ve been to the first day of orientation. It seems like they treat their employees well, though we´ll probably be pretty busy with classes for the next several months. Most of the classes are offered from 5:30-9:30 at night. By the way, Biz and I are seriously considering taking a Spanish class for the month before we enroll in the TEFL course. We want to be able to eat (we tried to order at a restaurant last night and were brought surprise dishes--fish, octopus, and rice soup and a mystery meat...)!

We´re staying in our hostel till tomorrow night--then we need to have or be finding an apartment. We would prefer to share an apartment with Spanish people so we can practice our skills (or, acquire skills?). There are some sweet parts of Madrid we wouldn´t mind living near, too--the Plaza Mayor or near the city center would be nice. Canterbury´s been pretty helpful, just by letting us use their internet! We don´t have to wait in line at the hostel for the single computer :).

My impression of Spanish people so far: they´re less intimidating and more casual than I was expecting. A lot of people have dark features, but some of them don´t at all. My mom´s Black Irish--she has dark hair, light skin, and light eyes--from Spaniards settling in Ireland hundreds of years ago. A lot of people have that look. There are also a lot of South Americans who have moved to Spain, and I´ve noticed several Asians here, too--speaking Spanish, which always throws me off guard. It´s awesome--hopefully I´ll be speaking Español by the end of this :). I see a lot of thin younger people, but not all of them are super hip, like I was expecting. They dress European :), but they look pretty middle class. Our orientation leader, John, was telling us that when the Euro came to Spain, prices for everyday goods went up 60% but salaries never increased. I don´t know how or why that happened. But that also means that if we´d come here six years ago, the US Dollar would have had a GREAT exchange rate. It´s ok--we´ll be paid in Euros and get used to the price difference. Esta bien.

Necessary Update

I don't know where the summer has gone, but it's already Monday the 23rd of July and I'm leaving for the adventure of a lifetime this Wednesday morning! And I haven't written in ages! Shall I start now and go backwards? Last night I had a going-away party at my house. It was just lovely catching up with friends I hadn't seen in months. Conveniently, it was a pot-luck and all my friends are great cooks, so we had plenty of goodies to much on. Have you tried Michael C's mom's Oreo pie? I LOVE it. Or Leigh H's pita bread and hummus... delicioso! (my favorite Spanish word at this point.) Jessica M. mentioned how strange it was that a lot of the people I usually have over for parties were missing: Michael G. in New Hampshire for the summer, Heather B. in China, etc. There were some refreshing new faces there, and I love it when my friends meet and befriend each other. Ellen is especially good at that! If you haven't met Ellen yet, you should! Seth and Jared, accompanied by my dad on the violin, closed out the party serenading us with James Taylor and Jump Little Children covers--I think they play them better than the originals. Anyway, last night was bittersweet--saying goodbye is always sad. But I do know that I'm going to look back fondly on the next year with Biz for the rest of my life. And that's exciting.

The past week has been spent saying goodbye to dear friend near and far: Drew, Amy, Justin and Erin in Clemson, Anna and Jason in Columbia, and Joy in Atlanta. Hannah came to Edisto Island with my family last weekend (which feels like aeons ago). At the end of June we had our Sisters-No-Misters vacation in Orlando--the farthest we've gone thus far! Oh, it was such a blast. Highlights included Downtown Disney at night, hanging out by the pool, and the amazing land of Epcot. It's really cool, if you haven't been. Epcot/Disney hires hundreds of students from around the world to work in the different "countries" represented. Each country has a couple buildings dedicated to it--like a restaurant and a shop with products you could actually buy in that country. My favorites were Morocco and Norway--two countries I hope to visit in the next year. There were no Spain or Sweden, two other countries I hope to get to know in the next few months :).

Things I've been thinking about lately: life's brevity, transcendent truth, human nature, how I want to garden like Hannah, characteristics I admire in people: humility, transparency, vulnerability, security (aka, my friend Joy who I just saw). The ability (or inability?) for people to change. I think ability. But it ain't easy. I want to be an early bird someday. Right now I'm a late-night owl, and I don't think Spain's going to help with that. I think it's so interesting when people realize they don't want to be where they are now in 20 years and suddenly change (I was just talking about that with Seth), and it's interesting that people become more moderate as they get older (ie: the sixties). I've also been thinking about something my great aunt Edy said--when she was a girl, she thought her step-sister was a little on the weird side, but now they're best friends. I think about the girls I know I just don't "jive" with. Maybe I'm intimidated because they're too cool for me so I don't feel in my element around them. But someday we'll all be old people, wearing dentures and high pants, and the playing field will be levelled out--and we'll be friends. That's good to think about if I'm ever intimidated by someone.

Now I've got to pack!

Shelley

This is by Galway Kinnell--my dad showed it to us over Thanksgiving and I've been thinking about it ever since.

Shelley

When I was twenty the one true
free spirit I had heard of was Shelley,
Shelley who wrote tracts advocating
atheism, free love, the emancipation
of women, and the abolition of wealth and class,
a lively version of Plato's Symposium,
lyrics on the bliss and brevity
of romantic love, and complex
poems on love's difficulties, Shelley
who, I learned later--perhaps
almost too late--remarried Harriet,
then pregnant with their second child,
and a few months later ran off with Mary,
already pregnant with their first, bringing
along Mary's stepsister Claire,
who very likely also became his lover,

and in this malaise a trois, which Shelley
said would be a "paradise of exiles,"
they made their life, along with spectres
of Harriet, who drowned herself in the Serpentine,
and Mary's half sister Fanny, who, fixated
on Shelley, killed herself, and with the spirits
of adored but neglected children
conceived almost incidentally
in the pursuit of Eros--Harriet's
Ianthe and Charles, denied to Shelley
and sent out to foster parents, Mary's
Clara, dead at one, her Willmouse, dead at three,
Elena, the baby in Naples, almost surely
Shelley's own, whom he "adopted" but then
left behind, dead at one and a half,
and Allegra, Claire's daughter by Byron,
whom Byron packed off to the convent
at Bagnacavallo at four, dead at five--

and in those days, before I knew
any of this, I thought I followed Shelley,
who thought he was following radiant desire.

Leah and Reagan's nuptials

Leah and Reagan running to the moped


photo shoot with Leah and Reagan


I'll start with this past weekend's BIG even and go backwards: Leah and Reagan were married last Saturday, June 2. They are now in Hawaii on an island-hopping cruise. The wedding was "the most beautiful indoor wedding I've ever experienced," said Jennie, a bridesmaid and sister to the bride. Jennie also said that Anna, another sister, had the most beautiful summer wedding and Jessica, sister number 3, had the most beautiful fall wedding she has been to. Someday Alice will have the most beautiful winter wedding, Jennie will have the most beautiful spring wedding, I will have the most beautiful, and only, destination wedding Jennie has been to--if Dad isn't broke by then, that is.

tired little princesses

The bride stunned the celebrants as she proceeded down the long aisle of First Presbyterian Church in Greenville, SC. I, personally, did not cry, unlike most people in the church (brides are breathtaking--aren't they?). I did, however, tear up at the rehearsal the previous night. The groomsmen wore a Reagan-esque combination of striped green ties and patterned shirts with navy blazers. Bridesmaids wore olive green strapless dresses that belled under at the knees. They brought to mind an era when women vacuumed their houses in pearls: the fifties. But Leah really stole the show--I mean, she looked smashing! From head: Jessica's veil (the "something borrowed") to toe: pink high heels. Yes, she pulled them off splendidly.

spoiled little princesses

The reception was at the church and was catered by Linda Abrams, who is also, I have heard, a phenomenal history teacher. I wish I could have had her for a class (preferably her class on Napoleon). The family of the bride is still eating leftovers like spinach artichoke dip, brie & apricot delights, and wedding cake (would you like a piece? Come to our house and we'll give you a generous one!). The immediate family of the bride and groom enjoyed mingling with their most amazing extended family, who came in from MA, NM, OH, FL, PA, etc. Little Olivia, the bride's two year-old niece, was especially popular with the family. The family also enjoyed catching up with old friends from high school and beyond. The self-serve candy bar (table to fill your own bag of candy) was a big hit with the guests with special appearances from Runts, m&ms, Reese's and Skittles (Reagan's favorite). Pictures of the nuptials and rehearsal dinner are to come.

Dad with his granddaughter Olivia

all the cousins but Leah and Kayla

OK--other than that, I started working with an interior decorator part-time on Tuesday. I'm mostly just running errands for her--taking her kids to the pool, organizing stuff in her office, finding fabrics that she has to return to a fabric library (they have those! Isn't that cool?). Well, it's really tragic, but I got to work this morning and there were a ton of cars parked in front of the house and some of her friends sitting outside to tell me that Cindy's ex-husband had just passed away this morning from a heart attack. They had two children, a boy, 10, and a girl, 14. It was really shocking. Everyone was/is mostly concerned for the children. I'm really thankful they have a great support group around them--really, a lot of people praying for them and trying to comfort them. It hit me as someone who's just met this family how strange it is that life just goes on for other people who don't know them. People are having road rage a street away from them. I felt like the whole world should stop and mourn their loss with them. Be kind.

Jared and me on the Boston metro

A couple weeks ago I took a road trip to Boston to visit my friend Seth (and see the relatives!). Other than rain the whole week, Jared (my road trip buddy) and I thought the trip was quite nice. We learned a good bit about Boston traffic, which is horrendous. I'd never tried to navigate the roads there before! Use the Metro system, if you can! And, go on a sunny week! I got to see my dear friend Emily, who is now back in Yellowstone. I talked to her and Lindsay the other day and mourned that I'm not there this summer--but I honestly think very good things are in store for me here and now. Joy, another Yellowstone friend, and I made a pact to do some cool expedition together in three years (when she's out of dental school)--either biking across the country or hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Hold me to it!

I'm learning Spanish right now! I'm getting excited about teaching in Madrid for the next year. Who knows how I'll grow and change? That's an exciting thought. Pray for me. I leave at the end of July with Biz! Adios!

VA Tech victims' profiles

(click title)

I just read these, with tears. Gosh. All such wonderful people.

Packing up

Today I'm packing my stuff up, then I'll paint my room back from "Chinese Lantern" orange to white. I feel nostalgic going through all my old stuff—all the way back to Yellowstone days—and thinking of how much I’ve changed in the last year. I feel like I’ve grown exponentially with each year of college, so this year maybe the most. There was South Africa—that grew me more than anything else could, though. I didn’t think I’d miss college till I saw a lot of college students in Chicago last week—I think I’ll miss the college culture. It’s such a fun time, and big learning time—of course. Today's graduation--I'm not graduating till August, technically (so, I'm not walking, because I'll be out of the country), but I'm ALL DONE!

Chicago at dusk


Update on Chicago: the Greyhound bus was an eye-opening experience. Kind of depressing, actually. I wanted to adopt the dysfunctional families I saw—a mom leaving her boyfriend of seven years, with whom she’s had four children, two of whom are with their grandpa—leaving him because he hit her, arguing with him on the phone but assuring him she still loves him. I felt so sorry for her sweet little girl Chastity, whose first birthday is May 19th, and whose dad will miss the celebration. I’m so afraid she’ll turn out sad, like her mom. Anyway, I wanted to adopt the mom as a friend and teach her to read with her kids, take them to the zoo, learn how to swim, go to summer camp—all the things I took for granted as a kid. Teach her to get a good job. Anyway—depressing. Sorry! But, I’d recommend the Greyhound experience. It was fine. I felt safe—especially once I stopped being self-conscious. I slept and read most of my trip, and talked to some pretty interesting people.

The Ba'hai temple in Chicago--beautiful

Chicago was amazing—such a clean, friendly, smart city. Seriously, people seemed smarter than average ☺. There are a lot of good colleges around, so maybe that’s why. And Oprah lives there—I’m sure that has something to do with it. Kind of kidding—but I do love Oprah. Highlights: hearing the Dalai Lama speak (such a down-to-earth PERSON! And such a great laugh!), an acoustic concert with Ben Gibbard and David Bazan, eating Ethiopian food (which you must try before you die! Add that to your list immediately), going to the Art Institute (awesome), visiting the Ba'hai temple, deep-dish pizza, Chinatown (where I lost my favorite green sweater that I wear every day… so sad!), wind (I love wind!), Lake Michigan, eating well, shopping. Johnna was an exceptional hostess. Did you know that to become an Illinois state resident, all you have to do is have an address in the state? Then you can get in-state college/grad school tuition. Sounds like a plan to me ☺.

Dinner with Ashley, Biz and Hannah

Hannah, Biz, Erik and I tried to go strawberry picking in Anderson yesterday, but the strawberry farm closed early because there are no berries left due to a frost in April! We were so disappointed. So we went to downtown Anderson and had strawberry smoothies instead. Biz’s parents took us to dinner in Greenville last night. It’s official, by the way, that Biz and I are moving to Madrid in the fall! We’ll both be teaching there till June of 2008. I’m so excited. Biz is so fun, and we’ve both studied abroad in South Africa and have friends scattered across Europe whom we plan to visit. I’m excited about a new chapter in life. And the tomato festival in Madrid. Yay! Come visit me! And teach me Spanish if you know it!!

PS--today's my dad's birthday! He recently won FIRST PLACE (out of 900 entries) in the Emrys Journal for a poem he wrote called "Apple Picking." We're so proud.